Sunday, May 07, 2006

The Meandering Mississippi

6th May 2006

The "great river" of the native Indians winds its way through the mid-west and is the geographical boundary for many a state in this region of the United States. Over the ages it has helped nurture life, been a conduit for trade and a haven for wildlife.

In my younger days, the river was a nightmare for all of us students alike, with its repeating "s"s and "p"s. Now, under no grim compulsion to spell it right, the river seemed a lot friendlier as Y and I drove by it on a warm Saturday morning. Winona, a week ago had given us a birds-eye view of the river. This morning, we were cruising alongside it.

From Rochester we worked our way Northeast towards Red Wing. Enroute, Bushel & Peck beckoned us with its signboard for fresh orchard apples. Though they had run out of apples, but we got to meet a friendly dog and window-shop a variety of fruit and vegetable preserves and sauces. Some persuasive marketing by the owner had us buying morels. This is morel season and hunting for them is a past time and often a prelude to a fine meal for most farmers.

Red Wing is a small town 45 miles from Rochester. It is proud to be one of the habitats of the American Bald Eagle that was successfully saved from extinction and is now a strong symbol of conservation. Barn Bluff at over 350 ft is the highest point in Red Wing. The trails to the top are walled by rock and we met a few climbing enthusiasts straining their sinews. The west scenic viewpoint overlooks the town of Red Wing and also the bridge across the river into Wisconsin. At the top, we were caught unawares by the sweet smell of corn syrup wafting into the air from a processing unit below.

Crossing over into Wisconsin we drove south along The Great River Road along the M, stopping at historic markers at Bay City, Maiden Rock, Stockholm and Pepin (see this). Each of these markers tells a story. The Maiden Rock marker, for instance, recounts the legend of an Indian girl who jumped to her death to avoid being forced into marriage (ah ! this is a recurring theme). At one such marker, Y and I met a couple of bikers and got to exchange a few words. Biking is a very popular hobby during the spring, summer and fall and couples often travel in several pairs. The sight of gleaming machines zipping across the road at 70 mph is an awesome sight.

All along, we got glimpses of Lake Pepin which is the largest body of water that lies alongside the M and drains into it. At Pepin, we pulled over for lunch at the Pickle Factory, a quaint pub and eatery on the banks of the lake (Y claims he deserves appreciation for the find !). The menu was sparse but seemed popular and the waitress at our table agreed that there could have been more catch on the menu! By the way, the USA gives its fish very funny names: perk, crappie, tilapia and walleye to name a few. I am tickled! :)

We continued our journey south and crossed back into Minnesota at Winona later in the afternoon. Summing it up: The weather gods were benevolent, the mighty M open and gushing to appreciation and the soaring birds of prey unperturbed by our visit. We could not have asked for more!

Monday, May 01, 2006

Winona - the first born daughter

Winona is a small town east of Rochester, Minnesota. It was not the best of days to travel 40 miles but on Y's insistence, we set forth on a wet, cloudy Sunday afternoon. The drive to Winona is to say the least - breathtaking. Spring was in the air, cows in the meadows and verdant fields rippled in the strong breeze. Grain silos stretched into the skies and totem poles dotted well-kept gardens.

The ride to the viewpoint at Garven Heights is winding but short. At 575 ft, the highest point offers a breathtaking view of the town and beyond. The eastern front is of the mighty Mississippi winding her way along the state border with a two-lane bridge spanning the river into Wisconsin and on the north side are the bluffs shrouded with deciduous vegetation. The mist in the air and the tall, drenched cedars added a romantic touch to the visit.




On getting back to ground level, we walked around the streets of Winona. Downtown Winona is centered around the University campus and like every U town, the denizens projected a carefree attitude. A desperate coffee hunt yielded Abbey's Soda Jerk and Candy Cafe built along the 1950s soda-pop place.

Winona appeared to have a fairly strong Christian population. Lutheran, Catholic and Episcopal churches are numerous and are all visual treats with their tall spires and manicured lawns. However, the one that caught our eye was the domed St.Stanislaus church with its white facade and prim exterior.

A walk around the local lake was refreshing. I noted hundreds of dead worms ( earthworms I presume) washed out on the tar from the lake. What caused death in such numbers ? And for my mental notepad : the black-winged bird with a touch of bright red on its shoulder and a shrill call needs to be identified. (Post-script : this is the Red-winged Blackbird )

The return journey through the spectacular White Water State Park was relaxing. We were guided back to Rochester by road signs and the dark, water-bearing clouds that condescended to shower us at intervals.

A trip to the grocery store marked a mundane end to a delightful journey ..

To see a world in a grain of sand,
And a heaven in a wild flower,
Hold infinity in the palm of your hand,
An eternity in an hour.

- William Blake